Viscount Valentia at Shivala Palace, 1803: The Tattered Mughal House in Varanasi

How Lord Wellesley rewrote royal protocol at the Shivala Palace, marking the definitive shift from Mughal sovereignty to British supremacy.

Shivala Palace, Varanasi, 1803
Shivala Palace, Varanasi, 1803

Read the Past Episodes

Valentia in Varanasi
George Viscount Valentia, an Earl in England embarked on a trip to India in 1802 and published a detailed record of his experiences in three volumes
Viscount Valentia: The Unapologetic Exponent of Colonial Slavery
George Viscount Valentia was an unapologetic advocate of colonial slavery and celebrated British colonialism
Wellesley’s Grand Banquet in Lok Bhavan as a Symbol of British Plunder
On January 26, 1803, Wellesley throws a lavish dinner at Lok Bhavan, Calcutta, attended by Valentia. Its extravagance is funded by the British plunder of India.
The East India Company is an Old Woman and Valentia is her Grandson
When Valentia visits Lucknow, the Nawab of Awadh tells him that his people think that the East India Company is an old Woman, Wellesley is her son and Valentia, her grandson
Valentia’s Journey from Calcutta to Bhagalpur: A Hardened Colonist’s Perspective
Viscount Valentia’s diary recording his journey from Calcutta to Bhagalpur provides a candid picture of how an unapologetic colonist views Indians as an inferior people
Shah Shuja Vandalises Sitakund: The Singing Well of Munger
Munger’s Forgotten History: From the Sacred Sitakund to the Haunted Singing Well.
From Pushpapura to an Opium Cantonment: Valentia’s Day in Bankipur
How the East India Company turned the Mauryan capital’s ground into a depot for China’s addiction and Britain’s gunpowder
The Battle of Buxar Through British Eyes: Lord Valentia’s 1803 Bihar Travelogue
Decades after the decisive 1764 Battle of Buxar, an English aristocrat’s 1803 journey through Bihar captures the forgotten aftermath of British expansion in India.
When the Sahib Hated Holi: Viscount Valentia’s 1803 Varanasi Journal
A colonial traveller’s disdain for spring festivities, Mughal pomp, and the cultural disconnect that shaped modern Indian attitudes.

MARCH 10, 1803 proved a highly eventful day for Viscount Valentia. After an early breakfast, he set out with Neave to visit a “native of rank.” His day had indeed been meticulously planned—well in advance—by Wellesley himself. 

Valentia’s journey began at 9 AM. Seated in his plush palanquin, he saw how his “two suwwarys united, made a very handsome show,” as they led the way. His destination was the once-magnificent Shivala Palace which was back then, “situated in the middle of the town, on the bank of the Ganges.” Its current occupants were British-installed usurpers—Qutlaq Sultan Begum and her son, Mirza Khurram. 

In 1781, the East India Company’s force had crushed Maharaja Chait (Chet) Singh of the Narayan dynasty—the Rajas of Varanasi. Chait Singh had fought against Warren Hastings’ hefty extortions and after his defeat, was deposed. His palace and fort were seized and given to Mirza Jawan Bakht, the eldest son of Shah Alam II—the Mughal king, who had now become a pensioner under British protection. Jawan Bakht died in 1788 and his crafty wife, Qutlaq Sultan Begum, was holding on to an estate in absolute tatters. 

Yet, in British eyes, this was still a native family of “rank” deserving of royal courtesy. However, Wellesley had overturned the terms of courtesy for a straightforward reason—the British were now the ruling class and they were entitled to due deference due from the supplicant Mughals. Valentia narrates how, when Cornwallis had visited Varanasi, he was treated as an inferior in a reception ceremony: 

On paying a visit to any Asiatic prince, an inferior receives from him a complete dress of honour, consisting of a khelaut [khillat], a robe, a turban, a shield, and sword, with a string of jewels to go round the neck. This ceremony was submitted to by Lord Cornwallis when at Benares.       

Wellesley was outraged when he learnt of this ceremony and summarily halted it. On his visits to Indian princes, he “determined to appear in the presence of the royal family in his [military] uniform, receiving the dresses in trays as a present made to him.” 

And now, Wellesley had given strict orders to Neave who in turn passed on the orders to all “natives of rank” in Varanasi to accord the same reception to Valentia as well. Valentia is naturally elated at this and showers gushing praise upon Wellesley: “his will and pleasure is a law.” 

This is how Valentia is received as he approaches the Shivala Palace: 

I found the guard drawn out to receive me… It was intended to do me honour, and I felt the compliment. On entering the gate a salute was fired.     

 Then both Valentia and Neave alight from their palanquins and move to the Diwan Khanah—Hall of Reception—and find that prince Mirza Khurram was awaiting them. His description of the Diwan Khanah is pithy but highly visual. 

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It is a small room, elevated a few feet from the ground, open on three sides, and supported by pillars; on the fourth a purdah was stretched across, behind which was seated his mother. He advanced to the head of the steps, followed by his three sons. He there embraced me three times, and taking hold of my left hand, led me to a small couch close to the purdah, and seated me on his right hand… between his mother and himself, though she was invisible.

The extended conversation that follows is singular for the range of historical insights it offers us. On the broadest plane, it shows us the very viscera of an imperial Muslim house not just in decay but destined for assured extinction—in less than a century after the death of its most powerful monarch, Aurangzeb. It is also a scene of wonder—a graphic message of a dynasty that should’ve vanished decades ago but hasn’t. It is also a reaffirmation of several patented truths of a typical Islamic regime and the changeless traits of the medieval Muslim society. Above all, it is a perceptive character study of the Mughal bloodline itself. 

What also makes it an invaluable historical record is Valentia’s blow-by-blow account embellished by rich and vivid commentary and sapience. 

To be continued    

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